Love|What We Saw at New York Bridal Fashion Week
New York Bridal Fashion Week, which was Oct. 3-8, showcased a stunning array of wedding day looks for 2020 brides, with a focus on diversity, inclusivity and individuality. From Vera Wang’s “cool girl” looks, to Ines Di Santo’s glamorous couture gowns, Marchesa’s dreamy lace confections, and Monique Lhuillier’s romantic classics, there was something for everyone.
The fall and winter 2020 collections emphasized customization and figure-flattering looks for all body types and personal styles. “What a perfect time for a bride to express who she is and what she chooses to wear,” said Ines Di Santo, the designer. “I love that today’s bride is able to transcend trend, the norm, and expectation.”
Here are a few of the new looks.
Big bows are back. Designers used this ordinarily sweet detail to make a sophisticated statement. The oversize embellishment added a pop to clean-silhouetted gowns, as shown in Carolina Herrera’s collection with a stylized bow on a ball gown with pockets. Ines Di Santo added a structured half-bow that led into a train at the back of a column dress, and Anne Barge featured an embroidered ball gown with a draped bow that seamlessly blended into the folds of the skirt.
This season bridal designers reinvented the classic train by reintroducing the Watteau (named after the French painter Jean-Antoine Watteau), a style of train that drapes from the shoulders of a gown. Ready-to-wear designer Zac Posen revealed a textured jacquard sheath with a cape-like Watteau train in his debut collaboration with the Pronovias Group’s White One brand, Zac Posen for White One. “The detachable piece is worn during the ceremony for a dramatic entrance, and then removed for dancing all night,” Mr. Pozen said. Amsale featured a whisper of a Watteau with a tulle train and off-the-shoulder sleeves. And Ines Di Santo dressed up a beaded trumpet gown with an embroidered tulle train draping from the straps.
Dramatic Tiered Skirts
Boho brides now have more options as designers used ready-to-wear influence in their bridal collections. The comfortable, yet chic tiered skirt has become a favorite streetwear look, making it a win for bridal. Amsale’s tiered, sleeveless V-neck gown is fitted for a black-tie or laid-back celebration. Lela Rose, who debuted her collection in a charming Greenwich Village park, showed a dotted tulle tiered gown with a ballet-inspired bodice. Viktor & Rolf Mariage, known for its wearable art-like designs, presented a dramatic taffeta V-neck gown with a petticoat-style skirt in its latest collection inspired by a winter garden.
Regal Ruffled Necklines
A wedding is all about the party, and several designers played up that festive mood with strapless, ruffled necklines. This retro look was presented by designers including Zac Posen for White One with a layered, frilly neckline on a fit-and-flare dress. Lela Rose adorned a fold-over neckline in pearls on an A-line cocktail dress. And the Israeli designer Eisen-Stein, a newcomer, presented a column dress with a ruffled neckline paired with a flirty thigh-high slit.
Romantic Allover Lace
Whenever a lace gown comes down the runway the audience draws a collective breath. Lace is the epitome of a bride, whether featured on a traditional ball gown or a modern fit-and-flare dress. Monique Lhullier, known for her craftsmanship and understated elegance, unveiled a guipure lace strapless trumpet gown with a long sleeve jacket, while Berta turned up the heat with a heavily embroidered long-sleeved fit-and-flair lace gown. And Vera Wang, celebrating her 30th anniversary in bridal fashion, took the classic look to rock star level with macramé lace dresses with off-the-shoulder opera or billowy sleeves and high-slit skirts.
Aspire at One World Observatory, an events space at One World Trade Center, offered the perfect backdrop for Berta’s heavenly fall and winter 2020 runway show, which was held 102 floors above the city.
Theia’s creative director, Don O’Neill, had an emotional moment backstage at his show, as a model in a wheelchair went down the runway wearing one of his creations.
Galia Lahav’s campaign video for its fall and winter 2020 collection featured the transgender model Valentina Sampaio. “This collection is about reflecting on who you are and what’s inside and Valentina was perfect because she has a deep look that makes you wonder what she is thinking,” said Sharon Sever, Galia Lahav’s head designer.
If you’re craving more bridal fashion, be sure to check out Wedding Weekend on Madison Avenue, a unique bridal experience full of panels with celebrity wedding experts this weekend. The lineup includes the photographer Christian Oth, the event planner Bryan Rafanelli, and the cake designer Ron Ben-Isreal. It also features personal appearances and collections from top bridal designers such as Ines Di Santo, Carolina Herrera, and Monique Lhuillier.
An earlier version of this article misstated the origin of the name of the Watteau gown. The style of gown is named after the French painter Jean-Antoine Watteau, not a train in Paris that was also named for the artist.